Enertion Raptor Riders Club



WD40 white Lithium grease work wonders for my old-style motors. Use a very sharp knife opening the seals and don’t damage them too much. Wear some glasses while spraying. I had a good spray back at my face and eyes :confounded:


If you go here and tell him your stats (weight, board type, riding style, ect…) one of the owners of riptide (some of the best bushings) will tell you exactly what you need. https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/bushing-set-up-help/42036


Just paid someone $10 to 3D print these. Thanks to whoever designed them and posted the files here!


You have propped the lights wrong. The notch is supposed to fit around truck spacer


What material you think is best to use for the 3D prints? ABS, PLA, PETG??


For these parts? Or in general?


for these parts


PLA should be OK, but do not leave parts in car at sunny summer day. Cover the board. Just use 4 perimeters, because I punched through with a rock, when dropping board straight.
PETG should hold better, last longer.
No clue regarding ABS. PETG is basically replacement for ABS - less toxic.


I would at least opt for PETG. My experience with PLA is that it’s very brittle (vibration environment). The sun part you mentioned and (maybe for the daredevils) moisture has a bad impact as well.

The shredlights are too expensive to lose them with a PLA mount imho. Lots of people are losing them even with their metal brackets…


Shrug… personally, I think PLA would be completely fine. The lights themselves aren’t going to survive a hard impact, so I don’t know how rugged the mounts really need to be.

Direct sunlight is fine and so is water under normal use… as long as temps don’t start surpassing ~120f / 50c.

Don’t get me wrong, PETG is much stronger and more resilient than PLA and if we were talking motor mounts, gears, or something like that, then PETG+ all day… but for light mounts, I just don’t think it really matters that much as long as you have moderate infill and external layer depth.


I am thinking about a safety wire connected to the shredlights in case they pop-off the mounts.


There are multiple points that can fail, also silicone casing of lights. But be careful. Do not leave too much slack in wire or the wire might catch something on road and pull the light away.


Best Raptor 2.1 upgrade: Switch from a blue battery indicator LED to a white LED


I do not mind, take risks and reap rewards, right? :slight_smile:
On your second part. I wouldn’t trust PETG(+) for gears. Not for eboarding, since they get abused as hell.
But hey, I’m the guy, after a good year on belt drive trains, would love me a chain. I don’t mind the noise, I just would trust it more…


so yeah, yesterday i rode the board home on a semi wet road, for around 15 min and unfortunately i suffered water ingress and now my remote will not connect to my board. And on the rare occasion it does connect, the throttle stll does nothing. Ive only had the board a month and to have a break on me rlly sucks.


Did it die while riding?


@lukeson12 Issue has been sorted already :slight_smile:


Wow, even after applying w40 to the screws. I can’t open them. I would need a thicker handle on the torque unit but don’t have one. Should I really wrench this up for unlimited power?


You just need a T shaped screw driver. Makes an insane difference.


I’d suggest everyone to open their Nano-X remote and put a blob of hot-glue on the micro-usb charging port pre-emptively -it’s only held in place by some flimsy soldering and the pins. Mine just broke last night :frowning: