Raptor 2 feature request


I noticed what I’m missing is a way to disarm the R2 remote without having to turn it off.
It’s quite dangerous if you hit the accelerator and the board for example hits someone’s ankle.
Turning off the remote isn’t an option because then you have to turn off the board also in order to calibrate the remote. But turning off the board means you loose your ride statistic and board setting.

Could one of the spare buttons possibly be used to disarm the remote by pressing it quickly for 5 times?

Would there be ways to program the vesc for this? Would it be safe? Or are there maybe other remotes available that feature an option like this?


You dont need to turn off the board to calibrate the remote must turn off the remote and before you leave turn it back on and lift the back end With your foot full throttle and full brake for calibration you are ready


Thanks good to know.
So in other words it calibrates itself whether it’s connected to a board or not?
… The grammar in your post is bit cryptic :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: just wanna make sure I understand correctly.


I’m sorry Samsung autocorrect is terrible.

As long as the remote is on you can instantly calibrate it by moving the throttle all the way up and all the way down.

  • Better braking at high speed

  • A brake light kit

  • A dedicated app (and the options is failsafe) made just for this board for android and ios, and watch app with support for tizen(samsung gear), ios watch, android wear

  • Battery % display on remote (and % of battery for the remote)


Try Gboard in the play store



Better braking at high speed.
-> Adjust your settings in your master focbox. Enertion had to choose between a reliable brake or skidding. There is no abs system on eboards yet.
A brake light kit
-> Could be an option, but what is the advantage ? Looking at regulation, then we need indicator lights too.
Shredlights (expensive, I know) and there’s always DIY. The libraries are there to implement this.
-> The whole thing is the raptor 2 is open source, it’s up to you what you do with it. There’s guys kind enough to give their work for free or with a small contribution for their work.
Battery % on remote.
-> Enertion is working on a design with built in display. Keep an eye on their instagram for updates on this.


-> Adjust your settings in your master focbox. Enertion had to choose between a reliable brake or skidding. There is no abs system on eboards yet.

I have Battery min on max (-12) and at high speed, it does not happen much when you brake max, it’s not until you come down at lower speeds, it starts to brake hard.


And 1 more request: A button on the remote to change from current no Rev. with break to Current (with reverse) so you can easily reverse without having to pick up the phone


You have to play with your motor min bro.

I’m not a big fan of a reverse mode with a button, at least a slider.
I’ll be missing the cruise control from my R1, maybe I’ll end up using the steez controller anyway with my R2


Why do you miss cruise controll? How was it implemented on the R1?

On R2 you can put it in PID mode using the Esc Monitor app. Works fine for me.

Regarding cruise mode I would prefer it like on the Mellow endless ride mode. It automatically pics up the speed without having to push the controller. Then (I think) the set speed lowers very slowly over time.


Ok il try that, have it on -54 atm. But i thought that is for low speed braking and Battery min is for high speed braking?


Yeah, you are right. The motor min could be set to the same as motor max(but negative). But the limiting factor is not the motor current but the battery current, and thats set as high as it can be to be safe for the battery.

The R2 has a 12Ah battery and going above a battery min current of -12 A means exceeding 1C charge rate, which might degrade or damage your battery. This is of course a sliding scale, if you set it to -15A for example, you’ll probably be okay and you wont use the full brake that often anyways so you might just lose a few % lifetime. Though if you want the same torque no matter the speed, you would have to set the min battery to the same amps as the min motor amps! Then you might overheat your battery or cause internal chemical damage to it. Not advised.

The technical reason behind this is that 500 watt power at low speed would use maybe 10 volts and 50 amps. Multiply amps x volts and you get 500 watts. For higher speeds the motor needs a higher voltage and 500W might use 40 volts and 12,5 amps. 40 times 12,5 is still 500. When the battery supplies power, it will always do this at the current battery voltage, so if you use 500W, the battery will always provide 12,5 amps, regardless of what speed you are going. This is transformed by the Vesc motor controller.
Mechanically, power is torque times rpm. This follows very close to the amps x volts relationship, meaning 500W at low speed gives low RPM and high torque, 500W at high speed gives high RPM and low torque.

The relationship between power and battery current is the same for both throttle and braking, so 500W brakes give high torque(high motor amps) at low speed and low torque(low motor amps) at high speed, while the battery still sees -12,5 amps.

And as you might be thinking, we have already exceeded the motor min of -12A at 500 watts of braking.

This relationship is by the way also present on acceleration, where the very high motor max of 80A can only be sustained to about 1/3 of the top speed, after which the power output tops out at 2000W since the battery cannot supply any more power. Thats the maximum i’ve got at least, with 30A battery max.

Also, if you use the app you’ll be going bonkers over the fact that you do most(all?) of the setting for one vesc and they are then reported back for both.


all i know is that my DIY board has brakes that work and work well at any speed with settings withing safe limits for the battery and my Raptor does not.


Well that is interesting, given that you have both and they should be comparable. Would you like to share some details on the battery in you diy and you battery min setting?


Same here. It’s why when I’m city riding I use my belt driven DIY. Too sketchy waiting for the brakes to kick in at low speeds with the R2. Brakes on the R2 with -12 (Battery) and -60 (Motor) isn’t even comparable to my DIY.


I would like to see the Raptor 2 have IP65 as a feature lol


Or when you drive in high speed.


I think that came out wrong in my post. Low speed has good brakes. When riding high speed the brakes suck. They take waaaay too long to kick in no matter the settings.